Edinburgh Revisited

I am back in Basel after a weekend in Disneyland Paris, where the rest of the fam abandoned me to head back home. It’s weird being here without all of the chaos of the past week.

In any case, it’s time to travel back in time to close out last weekend in Edinburgh, where the overwhelming theme of our short stay in Scotland seemed to be castles.


Night Tour

After arriving back in Edinburgh from our Highlands trip, we did a quick Royal Mile tour for Laura and Gianni. We did a number of the spots that we hit last time and, given how many walking tours we did last time, passed on a “telephone” version of the history.


This meant that we made our way up the Royal Mile, past St. Giles Cathedral. We showed them Elephant House (where JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter) and made Mia very sad by standing across the street from her beloved Nandos. Mia was suffering from a cold, though, so we were on the hunt for soupy food. She once again lost her chance at trying out Nandos. Some other time, I suppose.

From there, we went around the corner to what I guess has become an obligatory trip to see Greyfriars Bobby (aka, “the goodest boy”). There were so many sticks near his grave. It warmed my heart. Also, the sign where you can see people who Harry Potter characters were named after was about as deep into the kirkyard that I wanted to venture at night. The ghost tour in November was enough quality time with that place at night for me.


From there, we walked down to the Grassmarket area and then up Victoria Street before doing a night stop at the Edinburgh Castle. We didn’t spend much time there because James was tired and cranky and Mia was sick. Instead, we got some takeaway soups from a Japanese restaurant our hotel and called it a somewhat early night. It was a long day.


Arthur’s Seat

During our last trip to Edinburgh, the only thing James wanted to do was see Arthur’s Seat. This is the peak of a series of hills in Edinburgh, where you can get a beautiful view of the city (especially at sunrise). The problem with James’s request was that he didn’t mention this until 3/4 pm on our first day there, which in November meant that we didn’t have much light left in the day. All of our mornings were unavailable and I didn’t have hiking stuff, so it never happened.

I felt bad this time around and packed my hiking gear just in case James 1) still wanted to do the hike and 2) actually would wake up early enough to catch some of sunrise from Arthur’s Seat. Surprisingly, he was actually okay with this. I guess he really wanted to do the hike.

Now, I did enough research on the hike the night before to know there is an easy way up and a hard way up. Except, I was exhausted from the tour and late arrival the night before, so I didn’t actually look at which trail head was the right one to get to said easy hike. So, when James actually called me on his “wake up early and I’ll go” challenge, I just followed Google Maps. Unfortunately, this did not take us to the easy trailhead.


We didn’t realize this at first because the trail was pretty mild and there were people running up the hills. It was all fine until we got to the top of a pile of rocks saw a path that both knew we would absolutely not be comfortable with. The high winds did not help the situation at all. After some creative maneuvering, we realized that there was no easy way to get there.


Now, for the sake of making my baby brother happy, I grumbled but lived with the fact that the hike was starting to turn into a rock climbing experience. I think the rule of thumb for me may be to turn around whenever I get close to uttering the phrase “it’s a good thing I had a six month indoor rock climbing phase”. In any case, it wasn’t until we got to this narrow muddy path with a very steep drop that my fear of heights kicked in and I made James turn around. This, itself, was messy, because it hit pretty bad and it was hard to even just back track.

With our hopes of climbing to the top of Arthur’s Seat dashed, we found an alternate trail that would have gotten us a beautiful sea view. This hike involved less rock climbing and more comments about I was going to go the way of Rapunzel’s Prince.



From this trail, we could see the long path to the easy trail up Arthur’s Seat, but were happy with our new plan. This was until we got to another long stretch of very narrow trail where I made James turn around again. You can see the around the area I panicked on this trail in the second photo. It actually wasn’t as bad as the first one and I think I would have been fine with this one at the end of the day had it not been for the winds. Oh well.

In any case, despite our failure in getting to the top of Arthur’s Seat, our attempted hike was fun and it was nice having the Alea-James bonding time. We did get some nice views of Edinburgh and the sea, even from where we were and caught some of the sunrise. It wasn’t all bad.


We took a different route to get back to our hotel that took us through Holyrood Palace. It was at this time that we found the trailhead for the easy route. It looked significantly easier than the route we had just taken. I guess it wouldn’t have been as entertaining if we had gone the easy way. We would have just had photos of pretty sunrise views of Edinburgh. Boring.


Edinburgh Castle

After a shower/breakfast break, we made our way back our to the Royal Mile to finally do Edinburgh Castle. We got the explorer pass at Doune Castle the day before, which I believe paid for itself with the two castles. The rest of the group was supposed to do Holyrood Palace after I left, but they decided against it in the end and I think some of the group did Mary’s Close.





You can see Edinburgh Castle from a lot of the city, so I don’t know why none of us expected the castle to be as big as it was, but it was enormous. We didn’t grab and maps of the castle on the way in, so we spent the first few minutes in the castle a little overwhelmed by the sheer size of the castle.


We spent a few moments taking in what turned out to be a pretty good view from the castle (I guess we didn’t need a hike) before aimlessly exploring the castle grounds for a while. After a while, we decided to start at the prison. It was an interesting mix of history with some spaces that were staged to look like the prison.


From there, we did the crown jewels, which was incredibly packed. You walk through the history of Scottish royalty and the stories of how the crown jewels had to be hidden to protect them. It ends, of course, with the jewels themselves. No photos allowed, but they were pretty cool. They even had the Stone of Destiny there, as it had been returned to Scotland by the Queen back in the 90s.


The crown jewels were followed up almost immediately by the royal apartment, where we learned a lot about the Stuarts. Everyone lost track of each other through all of this, so we waited in the rain as everyone slowly trickled out.


We didn’t have much time left if we wanted to eat before I went to the airport, so our last stop of our Edinburgh Castle tour was the National War Memorial of Scotland. It was enormous on the inside but quite beautiful. Apparently we missed the dog cemetery, though ­čśŽ


We made our way back down from the castle, which was a bit of an adventure on already sore legs. We ate near the hotel so I could grab my back while we waited for the food. The restaurant was called the badger. They had a pretty good meat pie, but the decor was a little creepy with images of rodents in old-fashioned clothes everywhere. The trip back to Basel was generally uneventful, except for the fact that my connection was incredibly close and I had to run across the airport to get to my gate in time. No big deal other than that small detail.

All in all, it was another fun trip to Scotland. Despite the fact that we were there only a few months ago, we managed to make a pretty different experience out of the trip and it was fun adding a Gianni and Laura to the trip.


Castles and Lochs in the Highlands

It’s been a busy week as family has been in town. I met everyone in Edinburgh this past weekend because I got a Gianni and Laura on this trip and, obviously, they had to see Edinburgh.

Like the last trip, we also planned a trip out to the Scottish Highlands. There’s something otherwordly about the Highlands. This time, we opted for a castle tour rather than a trip all the way out to Loch Ness. That trip, while beautiful, was an exhausting day.

We got up early for our 8 am departure. We got to the meeting point and Clan Garbagnati took over the back of the bus. Once the whole group loaded into the bus, our tour guide explained the itinerary for the day and we departed from Edinburgh.

Our first stop was actually just outside of Edinburgh to see the three bridges at the Firth of Forth. As our tour guide noted, each of these bridges were built in a different century.



After our photo stop, we continued our exit from the Edinburgh area for about an hour to our first castle, Doune Castle. We passed this one during the other Highlands trip. Yes, this is a historical castle, but it was also the filming location of many important shows and movies, including Outlaw King, Outlander, and (perhaps most importantly) Monty Python and the Holy Grail.


The difference between the last trip and this one is that I have seen all of the seasons of Outlander available to me on Netflix since then, so I got to nerd out on some of the Outlander trivia during the trip. Actually, as silly as parts of the show are, I now know a lot of information about the Jacobite uprising. Probably more collective Scottish history than I got from watching Reign. In any case, other than being the filming site of Castle Leoch from the the show, we also saw Claire’s escape hatch from season one while we waited for the castle to open.


The ticket price to Doune Castle includes an audio guide. The audio guide has the historical information, information about the filming of Holy Grail and a whole separate audio track for Outlander, narrated by the Sam Hueghan (the actor who plays Jamie Fraser). Anyway, the castle was pretty cool in that it was very stereotypically castle-esque (is that a thing?). We even saw what was at some point the bathroom of Mary Queen of Scots. We were the last ones on the bus, though, as is our usual story.


From Doune Castle, we officially crossed over into the Scottish Highlands and drove for a while before we made a pit stop and food stop at Loch Lubnaigh. It was supposed to be a quick stop, but everyone ended up ordering hot breakfast sandwiches (the whole tour, not just us).



We also saw someone swimming across the loch, which was mind blowing given how cold it was in the Highlands.

After loading up into the car, we drove for quite some time towards Kilchurn Castle. The castle is a ruined castle sitting on the edge of a loch that looks like it’s an island. I believe it even was at some point. Given the wet weather, we had a bit of a muddy hike out to the castle. After that point, we got to explore the outside of the castle for a little while. It was unfortunately not open, but it was still fun to walk around. It was probably my favorite of the castles of the day.




After hiking back to the bus, we had a thirty-ish minute drive to Inverary for our lunch stop. This included a very brief stop to see Inverary Castle along the way. While the castle is open to tourists in the summer, it is closed for the winter for repairs and because people actually live there, so we just saw the outside.


We stopped in Inverary for lunch. Our guide recommended one restaurant, but it was crowded, so we went to a different one. Of course, the restaurant we went with was painfully slow, so we barely made it to the bus on time. Everyone else apparently had some great food like scallops. Our food wasn’t bad, we just had to scarf it down at lightning speed so that we could make the bus.



From Inverary, we made our way into the mountains for a little while for a stop called Rest and Be Thankful. I actually assumed that this was one of those roadside restrooms and cafes, but it actually held some historical significance as the place that people would stop on the way up and down the mountains.


After another hour, we hit Loch Lommond for our last major stop before heading out of the Highlands. I’m pretty sure we visited Loch Lommond last time we did our Highlands tour. If it was, it wasn’t the same part of the loch. I walked along the shores of the loch for a while and watched in horror as another batch of tourists were harassing an enormous swan. I walked all the way out to a church in the town, but then got lost on my way back. I delayed our bus a little bit.


We had a long drive back from the Highlands, during which time most people (myself included) fell asleep. I woke up for our brief photo stop at Stirling Castle before falling back asleep until waking up to an exchange between the tour guide and one of the other tour attendees regarding the historical accuracy of Reign. Come on, no one was pretending that show was accurate.


We made our way back to Edinburgh a little before 7, where gave Gianni and Laura a brief evening city tour. More on that in my next post. All in all, our second day trip into the Scottish Highlands was a lot of fun. As I’ve said before, there’s something about that area that’s just very special and it was fun to have the time to explore (or at least see) different castles throughout the day.

Being Alive in London

I somehow amassed a number of trips to the UK in the coming months, most of which are to and from London. I live a rough life, I know. The majority of these trips are to either meet or leave Chris since most of his flights are through London. The first of these trips was this past weekend. It was a quick trip, made shorter by the adventure we had getting there.

We learned a harsh lesson about EasyJet’s boarding policies. Our flight was delayed, so we arrived a little late. Chris was checking a bag because I’m trying to slowly send stuff home to make up for all the random crap I’ve accumulated here so far. Turns out, there is a hard stop to when they close check in and the gates for EasyJet that is connected to the scheduled rather than the actual time of departure. So even though we were two minutes late to the closure of the check-in gate (the difference of the tram we missed), we could not check our bags. This meant that we could either leave our bag at the airport and have it destroyed or book the earliest flight the next morning. Well, there was actually a third option of taking a taxi and dropping off the checked bag, but the flight was somehow undelayed enough for that to be impossible. It wasn’t a cheap lesson, but given everything was actually not as expensive as it could have been on most other airlines.

In any case, this didn’t cause us to realistically lose time in London, just sleep. We were staying at the Courtyard near the airport, so even after flying from Basel, checking into the hotel and taking a short nap, we left for the city around the same time we would have had we been there.


This trip to London was focused around the West End and hanging out with one of Chris’s former coworkers who moved to London just a few months before we left for Basel. I know you will absolutely believe it when I say that I spent hours trying to figure out what we were going to see on the West End. Granted, most of the research occurred before we tacked on this recent trip and when the green light was for a show in April. I didn’t want to expend the effort to try to do Hamilton given that we have tickets for it in SF in August and wanted to generally try to avoid a show I know either had been or was going to be coming through SF at some point. That part was actually kind of hard because there was a handful of shows on the West End that I missed because I was in Switzerland when they stopped through SF, but I wanted to see something a little more special. And as much as I am always DTLM, I wanted to avoid a show I have seen a million times. What it came down to was Kit Harrington in True West or Patti LuPone in Company. And, well, as much as I like GoT, you can’t beat seeing a Broadway legend in a Sondheim show. Sorry.

In any case, the show was not until 2 pm, which meant that we had some time to walk around and eat a leisurely lunch. We got into Victoria Station and made our way towards the Thames. This included a brief stop to nerd out over Hamilton and a stop in front of the Westminster Cathedral.



We made our way towards Westminster Abbey and walked around Parliament Square Garden, where I annoyed Chris by referring to statues of famous people by the actors who played them. I, personally, think it was a good use of the trivia knowledge that never helps us at actual trivia. It was ridiculously crowded, though. So. many. tour. groups.



From there, we walked to the Thames (with some obligatory jokes about the time that we convinced Andrew that they had torn down Big Ben to build condos) and walked along the Thames for a while. We spent some time at an interesting memorial that people seemed to be ignoring in favor of taking glamour shots with the London Eye behind them.



We had lunch reservations somewhat near the theater, so we made our way through Covent Gardens, where Chris rushed me past Jubilee Market so I wouldn’t spend any time at the market, and towards our restaurant. We ate at Savoir Faire, which specializes in affordable French food. It was pretty good. I was a big fan of the baked goat cheese caprese.


Lunch didn’t take as much time as we expected, which gave us some time to explore London’s Chinatown. Given that Lunar New Year had just passed, the area was crowded and very festive. We learned later from Elizabeth that the bigger Lunar New Year celebrations were closer to Trafalgar Square, but it was still fun to walk around.



After a brief stop for some boba, we got to the theater to see the show. I didn’t actually know too much about Company before seeing it, other than the fact that it’s Sondheim, there was a big gender swap in this production and that I could have hated the show and it would still have been worth it to see Patti LuPone sing “Ladies Who Lunch.” I completely forgot that “Being Alive” is the other big number of the show (hence the title of this post) and I recognized far more songs from the show than I expected. Still not sure where I’ve heard some of them. Traditionally, the show is about a commitment-phobic single man who is facing his 35th birthday party with all of his married / almost married friends. There are snapshots of his experiences with each of those couples and the weirdness of relationships. The gender swap of a woman facing the same things at 35 worked really well. I actually don’t know if I would have liked the show as much as I did in its original iteration. I did listen to some of the older cast recordings and there’s a certain additional layer to it in the version I saw. In any case, I loved the show and have been listening to music from it all week.



After the show, we rushed back through Chinatown to meet up with Chris’s former coworker for dinner at Dishoom. Along the way, we passed by an Agatha Christie memorial and the pub that we ate at during the beginning of our backpacking trip 11 years ago where some strange man tried to convince us that he was the richest man in London.



We got to Dishoom, which is a pretty trendy Indian restaurant, where there was a looooong line. We waited in line for about an hour, something that wasn’t so bad because they bring you chai tea in line. We ordered a ton of food and it was all delicious, but it was fun to catch up and share stories of our respective ex-pat experiences.


Given the 4:30 am wakeup call, we were exhausted by the end of dinner, so we caught the tube to Victoria Station and made our way back to the hotel. Chris and I both had morning flights the next morning. Mine was earlier, but we left around the same time because Chris had to get from Gatwick to Heathrow. I made it through security surprisingly fast, which gave me time for my obligatory airport stop at Wagamama.

So, that was our pretty short London weekend. Despite the rocky start and the fact that Chris abandoned me, it was a good weekend. Tomorrow, I meet everyone in Edinburgh, something I’ve been preparing for by bingeing Outlander.

Soccer Trip to Z├╝rich

Chris is gone and my cold is nearly gone. There is still a slight hint of a cough remaining, but I have otherwise recovered. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, the cold hit me pretty hard and I’m actually very surprised that Chris didn’t catch it from me.

In any case, we were supposed to go Budapest on the weekend of Feb 2, but Chris convinced me the night before that maybe a 6 am flight when I was suffering from a cold and looked awful was a bad idea. I had figured that we could just hang out in one of the thermal baths for most of the day, but the idea of flying with sinus pain also didn’t sound appealing. I was disappointed that I would be missing out on langos and goulash for the weekend, but I think it was the better choice. In any case, I was able to cancel the hotel in time and the flights were ridiculously cheap when I got them.

Despite the cold, I wasn’t going to give up on the weekend. Chris found out that FC Basel was playing Grasshopper (one of the Z├╝rich teams). Somehow, Chris’s scheduled trips out here would have him miss every FC Basel home game in one way or the other, so we decided our Sunday would be spent in Z├╝rich. This meant that our Saturday was reserved for grocery shopping, a trip to the olive oil festival at Markthalle and (perhaps most importantly) a trip to the FC Basel fan shop to prepare for the game.


We decided to make a day of it in Z├╝rich with an early start to do a walking tour of the city. We met with the group and it almost instantly started snowing. In retrospect, a walking tour in the snow with a cold was the prime recipe to make me more sick, but I did a good job of layering and was pretty warm throughout the day.


The tour stuck mostly around the Old Town and while it felt pretty short in the grand scheme of things, the cold started wearing me down towards the end. It was a good tour, though, with a good mix of city history and Swiss culture. We even got chocolate at the end of the tour, which is never a bad thing.


The tour ended around lunch time and we were tired of walking around in the snow. We hopped on the tram to get back to where we met for the tour and have lunch at the Restaurant Zeughauskellar, which was the old armory. They have a lot of traditional food and beers there, which made for a pleasant (and warm) lunch.



Now, in our initial plans for the day, we were going to spend the remaining time before the game at the most fitting place for a soccer day, the FIFA Museum. The snow must have gotten to our heads, however, because we completely forgot that the museum existed. Instead, we walked around the corner to the Fraum├╝nster Church (built in the 800s!!). It cost 5 CHF to get in (audio guide included). The church is not that big, but the audio guide was pretty expansive and the famous Chagall windows were quite incredible. Unfortunately, there were no photos allowed inside.


It was around this time that we realized that we had forgotten about our planned visit to the FIFA Museum, but we only had about 30 minutes until we needed to head towards the stadium and decided the time would be better spent in a cafe getting tea and hot chocolate. It was a nice way to stay out of the cold. After a short break, we caught a tram to Letzigrund Stadium for the game.



The stadium wasn’t too crowded, but it was still a very active crowd. Both of the fan groups were very spirited, as was our section. Interestingly, this was the first time we were attending a soccer game as an away supporter (unless you count the USMNT games we’ve attended where we were vastly outnumbered by the actual away supporters). It was strange to realize that this was the first time we did it, but it just felt like any other game (except when the crowd contested bad foul calls/non-calls). ┬áIt didn’t hurt that FC Basel won the game 4-0.


We jumped on a tram as soon as the game ended to get back to the train station. We wanted to catch a train back to Basel. Chris slept and I read.


All in all, our somewhat impromptu Z├╝rich trip turned out to be a lot of fun and probably the perfect about of energy expenditure for me with my cold. I don’t think I could have done Budapest with the cold. More importantly, we got our second soccer weekend in a row and we finally got our FC Basel game. We won’t miss out on our chance to see St. Jakob Stadium as we are going to be seeing a Eurocup Qualifier between Switzerland and Denmark there next month.


The Swiss Life: Seven Months and a Snow Day

Can you believe I’ve been out here for seven months? Time flies. In any case, my Californian spirit has been dealing with the cold. I suppose I can’t complain. It’s cold, but not like -50 degrees cold. We’ve even had a few snow days here in Basel. The snow doesn’t last long here. It’s just long enough to short-lived pretty winter wonderland views, but doesn’t last long enough that I have to slosh around in the snow. It’s perfect.

The thing about living out here is that it seems like people were born skiing. The thing about being a born and raised Californian who is married to another born and raised Californian is we are somehow awkward around snow. Neither of us ski and neither of us were going to suddenly learn how to do it this year. Nevertheless, we thought we should take advantage of the fact that we are significantly closer to snow than we are back home and decided to have a snow day.

The plan was to head out to Luzern so we could make it up to the nearby Mount Pilatus and do something in the snow. At minimum, there would be fondue consumption involved.

We got to Luzern and immediately found out that the weather conditions would prevent us from making it all the way to the top of the mountain. We could still make it part of the way up, though, which was what we intended to do. So, we took the bus out to Kriens so we could take the cable car as far as we were permitted to go.


When we got our tickets, we were asked if we wanted to get sled passes. We briefly considered it, but wanted to wait it out because we didn’t think we could get 25 CHF worth of sledding in. Now, my image of sledding is buying a cheap plastic thing from the store and sledding down small hills. It’s the extent of my snow-related activity given that I don’t ski or snowboard. As we rode up the cable car, we quickly learned that sledding here is actually involves pretty steep slopes and is a little more intense than what I’m used to back home. Given that we came out dressed in our jeans and are not remotely as outdoorsy as we might think we are, we were glad we didn’t go with the sled passes. Ultimately, it probably would have been a funny story to tell, but the adventure to get there would not have been pretty.


What this means, though, was that there wasn’t much for us in this area intended for sledding. We failed at eating at the restaurant too because it was so. crowded. Instead, we walked around and took in the snow.


We then took the cable car to the next stop down the mountain and walked around for a while in the snow. This proved to be difficult without dedicated snow shoes, but it meant that things were slippery and we couldn’t go too far. We started making a snowman, but really only ended up throwing snow balls at each other before getting back onto the cable car to get back down to town.


Once back in Luzern, we walked for a while in search of food. Since we failed to get our fondue in snow-covered surroundings, we found a restaurant in town and got it there instead.


After lunch, we walked around town a little to digest all the melted cheese. They’re in pre-carnival preparation, so you could see some carnival-esque decorations throughout the town. There was also a collection of carnival floats on display in the train station.


We caught a train back home shortly after that point so we could use the rest of the Sunday to recover from snow and soccer. The snow day was fun, but I think it ultimately may have proved that we are not snow people.


Soccer in Freiburg and a Vogel Gryff Dance

I disappeared for a while because I have been sick. As in cancel our weekend travel plans sick. I’m mostly better, minus the nasty cough.

In any case, this means that I’m several posts behind so it’s about time to catch up. We’ll start with a short one. Last Saturday turned out to be somewhat of a double feature. It didn’t mean to be. Saturday was supposed to be our day of touring Freiburg and watching a soccer game. But, we got the added bonus that it happened to be the 2019 Vogel Gryff dance.

This is a day of celebration of Kleinbasel where the Vogel Gryff, the lion and the Wilder Man dance around the city. We only caught parts of it. The morning starts with the Wilder Man’s cruise down the Rhine.


The lion and the Vogel Gryff apparently dance around the city while people collect money for the needy. We missed that and went straight for the procession across the bridge.



We didn’t follow the festivities much longer after that. Things got packed on the bridge and we had a train to Freiburg to catch, so we left the event shortly after noon with a quick stop by the cheese festival in Markthalle along the way.

In any case, the main event of the day was our soccer trip and (hopefully first) foray into the Bundesliga. We met with some folks from the office from the office first for a short tour of the Old Town.


This included a trip to the Freiburg M├╝nster, where I saw the best nativity scene ever.



From the M├╝nster, we decided to start walking to the stadium for the game. And I mean that we walked to the stadium. We were supposed to catch one of the trams, but they were absolutely jam-packed with people. We were told that it takes twenty minutes to walk to the stadium from old town, but it ended up being a nice frisk 50 minutes. It worked out, though, as we made it to the stadium just in time for the game.



The game was a lot of fun. Hoffenheim is a bit of a regional rival for SC Freiburg. We were told that their games are almost always high-scoring and this one was no exception. Well, except that Freiburg lost. There was the bad goal the hurt my heart in a way I haven’t felt since I’ve been home at my Quakes games and a pretty lame penalty kick call. It was fun, though, and was accompanied by gl├╝hwein, which was good but primarily served the purpose of warming my hands.


After the game, we got our SC Freiburg scarves from the fan shops. There was some chaos getting shuttles back to Old Town, where the group got separated, but we all eventually found each other. We ended the night at the Feierling Brewery for schnitzel and some very delicious beer before making our way back to Basel.


Wandering Basel: A Night at the Museums


Last Friday (January 18) was the annual Museums Night (or Museumsnacht) here in Basel. It’s an annual event every January where most (all?) of Basel’s museums are open from 6 pm to 2 am with special programs and giveaways throughout the city. It was something I wasn’t going to do at first because I assumed it’d be a night of clubs and loud music all night, but the programs sounded interesting. I figured I could check out a few spots for the 24 CHF of admission and be home by nine if it truly wasn’t my thing.

The night turned out to be a lot more of an adventure than I expected. I didn’t expect to see so many people wandering the streets and in all of the museum. You also don’t get the full impact of how many museums that are in Basel until they’re all at your disposal in one night. I started off the day with a general itinerary of activities I wanted to hit during the night. At some point, though, the true joy of Museumsnacht was just to wing it and follow the mood, crowd and your whims.

I started the night at the Basel Paper Mill. Sure, it seems strange to start with one of the museums that I have been to, but the museum continues to be a great place to geek out at. That and they were using a printing press to press text onto noodles.



The noodles were edible too, or at least I hope they were because I may or may not have eaten some. I also spent quite some time on the top floor of the museum watching some artists engage in art of Scherenschnitt, which is the traditional Swiss paper cutting craft. It absolutely mesmorizing to watch and I could have stayed there for a while. The designs were so elaborate. But, alas, it was Museumsnacht and I had places to go and things to see.

I made an unplanned stop at the Kunstmuseum Gegenwart location as it was just up the street. There was a lot of modern art and most of the exhibits were centered around a big war games exhibit that I’d seen advertised for a while. It was fascinating, if not a little unnerving at times.


After a brief interlude for some gl├╝hwein, I continued on my adventure. My next stop was actually the Cartoon Museum because they had a whole crime solving event going on and that sounded exactly like something that I would go all out for. Unfortunately, as I approached, I could tell that many other people found that event appealing as there was a long line leading out the door.

Instead, I ended up at the Antinkenmuseum, which is full of ancient statues and antiquities. There was a big exhibit on nudity in classic art and there were supposed to be live statues wandering the event, but I saw none of them. Aside from a surprise baby mummy in the Egyptian section, this one was a lot of fun and I probably could have spent a lot more time in there. Unfortunately, it was also incredibly hot and stuffy inside, which is not something that blends well with gl├╝hwein.


From there, it was up to the Munster to walk along the cloisters in the dark. There was soemthing a little eerie about how dark it was. There were several musicians preparing to play music, but I cut out before any of it started. What I did end up catching was the inside of the Munster, something that I realized that I had never seen.



My plan was to either grab some quick food and then either go to the Natural History Museum because it’s the Natural History Museum or get on the bus to see the Picasso events at the Foundation Beyler. Instead, I decided that a sit down restaurant would be a welcome break after a couple of hours of walking. Then I got distracted after dinner from my path to the Natural History Museum and ended up getting some boba. It was perfect.


I don’t remember what museum I was trying to get to after that point, but there was a musical performance going on that I wanted to check out. I somehow got museums mixed up (as one does) and ended up at the Basel History Museum. The coolest thing about this museum was the exhibit dedicated to the Dance of Death painting.


One thing I noticed throughout the city on the adventures from the night was that there were a lot of people wearing top hats with rabbits in them. I really wanted one and didn’t know where to get one until I saw an enormous line coming out of the Dollhouse Museum. I remembered that they’ve had a hat thing going on for quite some time and it all suddenly clicked and I knew where to go.

The line took forever, but I got to see bits of the museum on the way up to get it. The museum had a bit of a creepy Pretty Little Liars vibe to it, but it was also impressively jam-packed with stuff. The hat collection was the best part, though. After about an hour, I got my hat too.


Somehow, it was 11 pm at that point. While I probably could have thrown a few more stops into my itinerary, I had also started to get very sore from what turned out to be a lot of walking. For some reason, this meant that I had to take a relatively long walk out to the Sculpture Museum because they had a whole Harry Potter theme going on. Most importantly, there was a Harry Potter trivia/scavenger hunt event, but it was in German as was the lecture on what looked like comparisons between ancient folklore and Harry Potter characters. I walked around the Sculpture Museum a little longer, but decided that it was probably time to start heading home.


I honestly did not expect to have so much fun during Museumsnacht, but I was pleasantly surprised. What’s crazy is that I only hit a small fraction of the events of the night. There was so much more that I had flagged to do for the night when I was planning my agenda. In the end, though, there was something fun about the somewhat aimless jaunt around town. I saw a number of museums that I don’t think I would have otherwise seen while I was here. I should still try to get out to the Natural History Museum, though.